21 Years Ago, Samantha Jones Had Her Famous Chemical Peel

Sex & the City’s Samantha Jones is known for a lot of things, including her sex life, her style — and her epic skin treatment fail, which aired in Season 5 all the way back in 2002. It’s been 21 years since the character got a chemical peel that practically burned her face off, and it’s been burned in our brains ever since.

In the episode, Samantha was on a mission to get perfect skin ahead of Carrie’s book presentation party. Instead of going for just a touch of Botox, as she originally planned, Samantha let her dermatologist talk her into an additional chemical peel, which her doctor said would take 15 minutes and “make [her] look 10 to 20 years younger.”

In the next few scenes, Samantha leaves the office, scares a small child, shocks party-goers, and is compared to a side of beef carpaccio. Instead of looking fresh-faced and glowy, her skin was sunburn-red and so burnt that she met up with Carrie in a giant black brimmed hat and veil to hide the damage.

The episode is iconic, but it also scared a whole generation of millennials away from exfoliating skin treatments. Samantha’s raw, red face is often the first thing that comes to mind when we think of a chemical peel — but, in actuality, the results are way less scary.

As a refresher, a chemical peel is a type of skin resurfacing treatment that uses some type of acid — like alpha-hydroxy, beta-hydroxy, and/or poly-hydroxy acids (AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs) — to exfoliate the surface layer of your skin so that new, healthy cells can regenerate, explains Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and owner of skin care brand AziMD.

While you might recognize these ingredients in your at-home chemical exfoliants, the solution found in a dermatologist’s office contains a heavier concentration of acids, adds Dr. Bradley Glodny, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Park Avenue Dermatology. That’s why peels vary in intensity from superficial — aka on the surface of your skin — to much deeper, depending on what you’re trying to achieve.

In general, peels work to improve pore size, skin pigmentation, texture, scars, and fine lines. “With lighter peels, most people will notice a glow for several days, while deeper peels will have an added benefit in terms of reduced fine lines and wrinkles,” Glodny says. “Certain pigmentary conditions, such as melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, can be improved with a series of superficial peels, improving the irregular levels of pigment slowly over time for best results.”

And that’s the keyword: slowly. During a peel, your dermatologist will start by cleansing your skin to get rid of oil before applying the acid. They’ll let the exfoliant sit on your face anywhere from two to four minutes, says Glodny, during which you might feel a little tingle. Once the peel has worked its magic, it’s removed or neutralized to prevent over-peeling, which is what happened in Samantha’s case.

Experts say that the chemical peel in Sex & The City likely took off too many layers of skin, which is why Samantha left looking like a lobster. That’s why the strength of the peel is important to ask about. But you should also consider what you put on your skin before going into the office, according to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp, M.D. For example, it’s best to stop using strong products like retinoids a few days before your treatment, he tells Bustle, since they make your skin more vulnerable to damage.

The recovery time after a peel will vary greatly depending on the intensity of the ingredients used, how long the peel was left on, and your skin type, says Glodny. While the treatment can make your face pink, sensitive, or slightly flaky, it shouldn’t be anywhere near the level of Samantha’s. When you leave your derm’s office, Shirazi says you can expect an instant glow and skin that looks shiny and feels tight. Two to three days later, you might notice some light peeling, which will go away in a day or two. A deeper peel can be more dramatic with the flaking, but after about seven to 10 days, you’ll be fully healed.

Regardless of the type of chemical peel you get, Glodly says it’s key to wear plenty of sun protection so that your skin stays safe. If you’d also like to wear a hat that makes you look like a widow at a funeral, well, that’s your prerogative.

Studies referenced:

Rendon, M. I. (2010). Evidence and Considerations in the Application of Chemical Peels in Skin Disorders and Aesthetic Resurfacing. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 3(7), 32-43. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2921757/

Experts:

Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, board-certified dermatologist, owner of skincare brand AziMD

Dr. Bradley Glodny, M.D., board-certified dermatologist, owner of Park Avenue Dermatology

Dr. Brendan Camp, board-certified dermatologist