Every Retro Influence At LFW, From '90s Cutouts To '50s Skirts

Victoria Beckham often calls her husband, David, her muse, and nowhere was that more apparent than in her Spring 2022 collection, where she reimagined the menswear pieces she loves to steal from his wardrobe. “The oversized chambray shirts feel quite David, with a loose-fitting pant and a beautiful belt,” she told Vogue.

In addition to that perfect button-down, she presented trousers, power pencil skirts, single-breasted trench coats, and cut-out ’90s slip dresses that channeled Posh Spice.

Simone Rocha has always had a Medieval air to her collections, which makes her setting of The Church of St. Bartholomew The Great a fitting choice. Though largely a black-and-white collection, she mixed in pops of colors via bright red, pale lavender, and pastel mint green.

The whole show was inspired by the journey of childhood, as well as a child’s relationship to their mother. She integrated aspects of communion and marriage gowns like embroidered silk and small ruffle trim, as well as bralettes inspired by nursing bras.

Harris Reed only graduated from Central Saint Martins last year, amid a pandemic, and the 25-year-old has already debuted his first ever runway collection. It’s an impressive feat although, as he told Vogue, it didn’t hurt that used Instagram to share his designs at a time at when consumers had little more to do than scroll through the social media app.

For Spring 2022, his collection is unapologetic in design, making use of cascading silk ruffles, asymmetrical tulle tops, and sheer embroidered lace gowns. With all ten looks presented in black and white, each material stands in stark contrast to another, ensuring you notice every single one.

Halpern’s Spring 2022 collection was inspired by his summers in upstate New York, where the New York City Ballet would travel to rehearse and test new ballets and shows. As such, he used dance to present his opulent and colorful collection, crafted of everything from tassels to colorful sequins, liquid silk to ballet-inspired tulle.

Through his range of tight-fitting pencil dresses and tutu-like skirts, the designer explored both the release as well as the constriction of the body in a garment. It was very much a commentary on the push and pull the world is feeling both in terms of self-expression as well as overarching freedom.

At London Fashion Week, many designers still opted for small presentations, virtual showings, or the release of a video in lieu of a catwalk spectacular, but Richard Quinn opted for the latter, staging a full runway show for Spring 2022.

As such, it seemed as though the collection was shot out of a cannon, with his signature bright colors, blown-out florals, dramatic sweeping trains, and oversized shoulder padding.

Molly Goddard’s inspiration for Spring 2022 — the smocking on her childhood wardrobe — was fitting as the designer welcomed a new baby this year. The youthful influence materialized in a collection of statement dresses, knit cardigans, wide-leg jeans, cropped tops, and more.

In lieu of an in-person show, Goddard showed off her latest looks in a video with a more relaxed appeal, befitting of the carefree spirit of her designs.

Emilia Wickstead chose a film to present her Spring 2022 collection. It was an ode to the 1961 French drama Last Year at Marienbad inspired by “romance, nostalgia, summer holidays, and the meeting of the old-world and the new,” she told British Vogue.

Directed by Robin Mellor and styled by Kate Phenan, the film centered around a casual garden party, peppered with floral minis, ankle-length skirts, slim fit coats, and crisp cotton suiting.

During the pandemic, Erdem Moralioglu moved to a new home in Bloomsbury that inspired his Spring 2022 collection, which also marked the 15th anniversary of the fashion house.

What materialized was a unique blend of influences — reminiscent of Edwardian times, ’50s silhouettes, and gothic detailing — that somehow felt cohesive.

Roland Mouret filmed a short movie in Greece to send his Spring 2022 collection out into the world.

Although the pandemic is still raging, he chose an optimistic view of dressing for the coming months. His collection included colorful caftans, black sequin gowns, brightly-colored dresses, and matching separates that all speak to a future full of social gatherings.

In short, the world is moving forward with enthusiasm — at least if Roland Mouret has anything to say about it.

Alice Temperley took inspiration from her new home in the countryside of Somerset, presenting a collection that seems as though it’s been pulled straight from an English garden.

She integrated denim, embroidery (from local artisans), seersucker tiered dresses, and tailored cotton suiting for an eclectic collection that feels quintessentially Alice.