How Hyaluronic Acid Actually Improves Your Skin, According To Experts

When it comes to superstar skin-care ingredients, few get name checked quite as often as hyaluronic acid. Not to be confused with exfoliating acids (lactic, glycolic, salicylic), hyaluronic acid is actually a humectant, meaning it has the ability to draw moisture into the skin. When applied topically, this causes a hydrating, plumping effect, making the molecule especially popular among those with thirsty complexions. But hyaluronic acid doesn’t just create a superficial change. In partnership with SkinCeuticals, a medical-grade skin-care brand, we’ve consulted the experts to find out how it can actually improve skin health.

WHAT IT IS

Found in our joints, eyes, and skin, hyaluronic acid is a molecule that our bodies produce naturally. It acts as a cushioning and lubricating agent.

HOW IT WORKS

“It is truly remarkable, because this lightweight gel is able to hold 1,000 times its weight in water, making it a very effective moisturizer,” says Dr. Renita Ahluwalia, University of Toronto appointed and lead dermatologist at the Canadian Dermatology Centre. “It acts on the surface layers [of skin] to draw moisture [in] and encourage a healthy barrier.” When used topically, this can lead to a softer, more supple appearance. But, as Ahluwalia notes, “topical hyaluronic acid is a big molecule and will not penetrate the skin,” so it doesn’t affect how much is produced naturally by the body.

WHO SHOULD USE IT

Just about anyone can benefit from using hyaluronic acid. It supports a healthy barrier function, the results of which can been seen nearly immediately, and it has a very low risk of causing an adverse reaction. It can minimize the appearance of fine lines, and when used in conjunction with other ingredients like retinol and vitamin C, it can help mitigate irritation.

HOW TO ADD IT TO A SKIN-CARE ROUTINE

If you’re looking to hydrate and firm:

Rather than just working on the skin’s surface (which it does effectively with pure hyaluronic acid), this serum targets deeper levels as well for more intense firming. Licorice root and purple rice extracts protect existing hyaluronic acid in the skin from degrading — in fact, one four-week study showed that daily use of H.A. Intensifier resulted in a 30% increase of hyaluronic acid in the skin. And an ingredient called Proxylane stimulates collagen production. Overall, this creates plumpness and softens the appearance of crow’s feet, nasolabial folds, and marionette lines.

If you’re looking to hydrate and smooth:

This serum features a 25% hydroxyethyl-urea-and-aminosulfonic-acid compound to break the bonds holding dead skin cells in place. As a result, it replicates the resurfacing power of a 20% glycolic acid peel treatment in a formula that’s gentle enough to use twice a day. Surface lines are further diminished with the added help of hyaluronic acid, and kombucha has an antioxidant effect.

If you’re looking to hydrate and soothe:

Add thyme, olive, and cucumber extracts to this hyaluronic acid blend, and you’ve got a serum made for soothing and calming, making it ideal for those with acne and sensitivity. The oil- and silicone-free gel is also super lightweight and works to minimize discolourations.

If you’re looking to hydrate and restore radiance:

Simple, effective — with only four ingredients (including, yes, hyaluronic acid), this formula is all about hydrating, nourishing, and repairing skin without clogging pores. The inclusion of B5 in particular helps with the skin’s natural barrier repair.