From eyeliner to eyeshadow, mastering eye makeup for hooded eyes can be difficult. The reason? “It can be difficult to apply shadow to this eye shape because the shape is different when the eye is closed [and] when it’s open,” celebrity makeup artist Jamie Dorman tells Bustle. “Much of the shadow — or all of it — is hidden when the eye is open.”
Read more: 21 Eyeliner Tips For Hooded Eyes That Are Totally Genius
Celebrity makeup artist and key makeup artist for the New York City Ballet Neil Scibelli adds that hooded eye shapes have excess skin taking space from below the brow bone to the crease area of the eye, adding yet another reason eyeshadow can tend to get hidden.
But not all hope is lost. There are plenty of tricks and tips to get around this. From strategic eyeshadow placement to the best colors you should be opting for, Dorman and Scibelli break down the best eyeshadow tips for hooded eyes. If you’ve got hooded eyes, read on below to see what they had to say.
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1Apply Eyeshadow With Your Eyes Open
First, avoid one of the most common eye makeup errors. “The biggest mistake [I see people make] is to do the eyeshadow while the eye is closed or looking down,” says Dorman. Remember to always look straight ahead in the mirror and keep your eyes open as you put eyeshadow on.
2Extend Your Eyeshadow
When you have hooded eyes, Dorman says you’ll want to place shadow above the fold so that it can be seen. To do this, she says to create your own crease by drawing on color just above your natural crease and extend the shade above it.
If you aren’t sure where to place the crease, she says you can use a eyeshadow with shimmer in it and sweep it all over the lid to add dimension and depth.
3Add Highlighter
If you want to give eyes an instant lift, Scibelli recommends adding a cream or powder highlighter under the brow bone. A product like the Westman Atelier Super Loaded Tinted Cream Highlighter gives luminous color with just one swipe.
4Try A Colorful Smoky Eye
Scibelli says that if you want to go for a smoky eye look, forgo the classic grey or black shades. Instead, opt for darker tones like deep greens, plum, copper, and burgundy to make eyes pop.
5Wing Your Eyeshadow Out
Looking for another way to lift your eyes? Dorman says to draw out your eyeshadow shadow with a winged tip.
6Warm It Up
Scibelli recommends using warmer shades, like rose gold or pink, to soften the crease and open up the eye area a bit. Something like HipDot’s The 411 Pressed Pigment Palette offers 12 highly-pigmented colors that range from soft pinks to golden oranges.
7Use Eyeshadow As Eyeliner
TikTok user @christxie gives a thorough tutorial on how to do your eye makeup if you have hooded lids. She starts by contouring the lid with eyeshadow, tracing along the top lash line like it’s eyeliner, and drawing an upward wing on the outer corner. Finally, she pats a shimmery eyeshadow on top of the line and blends it upwards.