How To Decide Between A Toner Vs. An Essence For Your Skin

Toners and essences are a couple of beauty elixirs that manage to be both ubiquitous and also sometimes sort of vague — especially when you start trying to differentiate the two. They’re both water-like liquids that get patted into the skin after cleansing, which may lead you to wonder: How do you decide between using an essence vs. toner in your beauty regimen? They do have a lot in common along the lines of prepping the skin and infusing it with nourishing ingredients, but the concoctions have a few key distinctions. Read on for what dermatologists say about toners and essences and how to use one (or both) in your skin care routine.

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What Is A Toner?

If you had acne-prone skin in the early 2000s, then you may remember toners as the beauty products that wiped out any drop of oil on your skin’s surface. According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jenny Liu, M.D., toners have traditionally been alcohol-based with the goal of eliminating acne-causing bacteria on the skin. “Historically, toners contained astringent ingredients that help to dry out sebum and were, therefore, marketed more for oily skin,” she tells Bustle.

Of course, experts and consumers alike have since learned that stripping skin of moisture is not the best way to tackle breakouts (and could actually worsen the problem). That’s why the majority of facial toners on the shelves now are alcohol-free and contain ingredients meant to balance the skin’s pH level after cleansing and tackle specific concerns beyond oiliness — like hydration, uneven skin tone, and, yes, acne — in less-harsh ways, explains Dr. Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified Hamden, Connecticut-based dermatologist. The pH-balancing perk is key, BTW, since your complexion can become irritated or extra dry if its pH balance is off.

To shop for a toner with added skin-boosting benefits, look for ingredients like squalane — an ingredient that mimics the skin’s naturally occurring hydrators — hyaluronic acid, or aloe if you want something hydrating or calming. For brightening your complexion, you may opt for a chemical exfoliating toner that contains alpha and beta hydroxy acids, or one with niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3 that fades dark spots and helps minimize the appearance of pores. If you’re just looking to back up your cleanser and make sure you’ve removed all of the day’s dirt, makeup, and debris, opt for a simple alcohol-free toner like this one from Neutrogena.

What Is An Essence?

Facial essences have roots in Korean and Japanese skin care, says Liu (it’s definitely a traditional part of a 12-step K-beauty routine). Like toners, essences are applied after cleansing and before you carry on with the rest of your regimen. They’re typically ultra hydrating and packed with high concentrations of actives like vitamins and antioxidants to help fight free radicals, niacinamide to hydrate, hyaluronic acid to plump, or peptides to firm the skin. “It’s a liquid serum, essentially,” Gohara says. “[Essences] help enhance the effect of other products and penetrate the skin more deeply to make changes at the cellular level.” Liu also notes their ability to soften the skin and allow for enhanced absorption of subsequent products.

Essence Vs. Toner

Since toners are hydrating and tend to contain ingredients meant to target more than just acne, the line between toners and essences has blurred, says Liu. She says the liquids are often quite similar, and what a brand chooses to call the product may just come down to marketing. Her tip? Consider your skin concerns and allow that to guide you versus what the product’s called. Take the ingredient list into consideration, too.

As a general rule, though, Liu recommends essences for those with dry or sensitive skin, and toners if your complexion leans towards oily. Both should be applied after cleansing — but you don’t need to use both at once. “I would pick just one,” says Liu. That said, if you want to incorporate both a toner and an essence into your skin care routine, Gohara advises using a toner in the morning “to clean the palate and target concerns before applying SPF.” Essences, on the other hand, are better at night when your skin cells are turning over, she explains. Whichever route you go with, both elixirs can be beneficial in your quest for a more radiant glow.

Experts:

Dr. Jenny Liu, M.D., board-certified dermatologist based in Minneapolis, Minnesota

Dr. Mona Gohara, M.D., board-certified dermatologist based in Hamden, Connecticut