Beauty

This Derm-Developed Brand Is Reshaping Our Approach To Melanin-Rich Skin Care

I tried the whole line myself, and these are my honest thoughts.

by Neha Tandon
Brownkind

It seems like every billboard or ad I saw growing up featured a light-skinned model who matched Eurocentric standards of beauty perfectly. From magazines to commercials on television, none of the media I was consuming seemed to match what I was seeing in the mirror as a brown-skinned, Indian girl. Like many other people with melanin-rich skin, I internalized rigid beauty standards and tried to adhere to them for years before accepting my appearance.

Now, in my 30s, I’ve learned to be proud enough to flaunt it. In the past several years, I’ve begun to see that beauty standards are slowly but surely changing. One of the biggest welcomed surprises has been also coming across this within skin care, and Brownkind, a dermatologist-founded skin care brand is leading the way. Husband and wife co-founders, Drs. Abhijit and Gauri Desai, have their own clinic where all their patients have melanin-rich skin. Shocked by how misinformed their patients were about their unique skin’s aging process, they recognized the lack of educational resources and meaningful solutions that exist when it comes to treating melanin-rich skin.

“The skin needs of people of color have been long overlooked and it is time to reclaim the dialogue so we can celebrate the inherent beauty of all skin tones,” says Gauri.

Brownkind has a full range of skin care products informed by the founders’ background in medicine and science, yes. But, they’re also pioneering open dialogues about melanin-rich skin that are both important and integral on the path to changing beauty standards.

“We see many shades of brown in our clinic,” says Abihijit. “Over the years we were amazed at how many of our patients are continually misguided on their skin’s aging process by large global skin care brands. Most people don’t know that skin of color ages differently than white skin. Tone issues such as dullness, uneven tone, and dark spots are the early signs of aging — not wrinkles for skin of color.”

As a beauty editor myself who is constantly discovering new brands, the mission of Brownkind really spoke to me, but I must admit that I had even more fun actually getting to try the products that I felt kept my skin’s needs at the forefront. It is worth noting that all of Brownkind’s products are infused with their proprietary Even Tone Defender formula, designed to preserve the tone of melanin-rich skin. From their Vitamin C Serum to a rich night cream that my dry skin loved, read on to find out what stood out to me about each specific product after testing it myself.

Dark Spot Corrector
Brownkind
It’s likely that you’ve heard about how the first signs of aging are wrinkles and fine lines. However, a big thing Brownkind’s founders talk about how the first signs of aging in melanin-rich skin are actually seen in dullness, patchiness, uneven tone, and dark spots. I can attest to the fact that while I don’t have any fine lines or wrinkles on my face, I do have dark spots. Most dark spot-correcting solutions tend to contain acids, but the founders let me know that they specifically formulated this cream without acids to reduce irritation and dryness, even after prolonged use. This contains the powerhouse ingredient niacinamide along with nourishing oils and phytonutrients to reduce the appearance of dullness. According to a third party clinical study, it helps fade the appearance of dark spots within six weeks of use. It has a creamy texture, so you can wear it on its own if you have oilier skin, or pair it with a moisturizer if you run more dry (like I do).
Sheer Facial Sunscreen SPF 40
Brownkind
Ahh, every brown girl’s struggle: Finding an SPF that works and doesn’t leave you with a ghastly white cast. As such, this sunscreen was the product I was most excited to try in the range, since yes, I haven’t had too much luck with SPF formulas that don’t leave their mark behind. If a sunscreen does blend onto my skin, it tends to also feel thick and greasy, clogging my pores. It only took me using this sunscreen once to know that it would be an essential in my routine for years to come. It goes on completely sheer and feels virtually weightless on my skin. Brownkind packed antioxidants into the formula to soothe and protect skin from inflammation and environmental damage, while also protecting it from sun damage. What’s more is that the founders pay homage to their Indian roots in this (and all their formulas) with skin-brightening amla, also known as Indian gooseberry. “It’s an ancient plant known for its anti-aging antioxidant properties,” say the founders. “It’s the vitamin C-suite.”
Glow Moisturizer
Brownkind
As mentioned, I have fairly dry skin. But, I don’t like wearing a moisturizer that’s too thick in the daytime, because I need it to wear well under my sunscreen and makeup. This has a creamy texture when I first pump a bit out onto the back of my hand. The second I apply it to my skin, it melts down into an incredibly lightweight consistency that my skin drinks right up. I love the plump feel and light glow it gives my skin immediately after application. It’s the perfect primer to my makeup. The founders say it’s non-comedogenic, so it’s totally safe for acne-prone skin, too. “It also has the advantages of strengthening the skin’s barrier in addition to reducing inflammation and soothing skin,” they add.

Vitamin C Serum
Brownkind
The initial beauty in this serum is that it can be used both day and night. It also has a wonderfully lightweight gel-water consistency that gets absorbed immediately. It’s rich in phytonutrients, which the founders say is the key to nourishing melanin-rich skin, thereby preserving its “youthful and vibrant tone.” The potent formula also helps to boost collagen production while strengthening and firming the skin. I like to integrate this in my AM routine to help brighten and balance my complexion.
Cleanser
Brownkind
I’ve been testing beauty products for almost a decade, and I firmly believe that cleansers are the most difficult product to get right. A good cleanser will clean skin without stripping it of its natural oils, and that’s precisely what this does. I use it in the morning as a gentle cleanser that removes the products I have on at night. It creates a nice, smooth base for the rest of the products I put on afterwards. I also use it at night after my makeup remover. Infused with botanical extracts and olive oil, it gets the last bit of debris off my skin and leaves it feeling soft and supple. Plus their trademark Even Tone Defender formula will help with balancing and brightening my complexion over time. I love the light lemony fragrance, too.
Night Cream
Brownkind
This might be my favorite product from the brand, and came to me at the perfect time. Brownkind’s founders swear by the inclusion of cacao in their expertly-crafted and curated formulas. Rich in antioxidants, they say that cacao helps to refine texture, boost circulation and soothe skin. While you’ll find the ingredient in all of their products, I personally felt those benefits most apparent in this night cream. I generally don’t tend to have reactive skin, but I recently experienced an allergic reaction that left my face extremely inflamed. This night cream was the first product I used on my skin that night, and I woke up with all of the inflammation completely gone. More than that, I actually felt that my skin’s uneven texture looked more smooth when I woke up. That was only after one night, and I can’t wait to see how this continues to improve the appearance of my complexion over time.

“Melanin-rich skin is almost four billion of the world’s population, yet they have been under-represented or ignored while developing effective skin care — the approach has always been one size fits all,” says Abhijit. “We believe Brownkind can change the conversation in skin care.”

Personally, I’m looking forward to seeing what more will come from the brand, and predicting this is one to keep on your radar.