Beauty

A Complete Guide To Fougère Perfumes, The Sexiest Fragrance Family

They’re where lavender meets mossy woods.

by Olivia Rose Rushing
A complete guide to fougère perfumes that defy gender, featuring Henry Rose Menace, Imaginary Author...
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Fragrance has historically been a gendered art form, with feminine perfumes filled with dreamy florals and masculine-leaning aromas that include smoky woods and crisp mint.

In 1994, Calvin Klein marketed the first-ever genderless fragrance, CK One. Since that launch, and especially in recent years, the industry and its perfume-loving consumers have questioned why aromas had a gender in the firt place.

While fougère fragrances are overwhelmingly found in the men’s aisle — like the popular Dior Sauvage — modern perfumery has truly pushed the boundaries.

What Is A Fougère Perfume?

Currently experiencing a resurgence, fougère perfumes feature a very specific blend of aromas. “Fougère, derived from the French word for ‘fern,’ defines a timeless fragrance category marked by a fusion of lavender, geranium, Tonka bean and oak moss,” Yves Cassar, vice president and senior perfumer at IFF, tells Bustle.

“Renowned for their fresh, clean essence achieved through a harmonious mix of green, sweet, and woody notes, fougère scents are frequently used in men’s fragrances.”

Cassar’s most recent creation, Menace by Henry Rose, is only one resounding testament to the revolution of more traditionally masculine fragrances.

The History Of Fougère Fragrances

As for the OG perfume that formally created the olfactive category, Cassar shared some insight. “Originating in the 19th century, the fougère accord found its genesis with Houbigant’s Fougère Royale in 1882,” says Cassar. “This groundbreaking fragrance laid the groundwork for an influential fragrance family that’s endured popularity.”

Countless strides have been made in the world of perfumery since then. Aside from creating lab-made synthetic ingredients that nix the threat of depleting the world’s raw materials, the fougère category, too, has been redefined by modern artistry and innovation.

“While the core components of the traditional fougère accord remain,” Cassar says, “perfumers have innovatively reimagined it over the years by incorporating more modern elements.

“The addition of citrus, spices, fruits, and even aquatic notes exemplifies how perfumers continually reinterpret the fougère, offering contemporary, youthful perspectives on this classic category.”

8 Gender-Neutral Fougère Fragrances

While most of the fougère fragrance category is filled with traditionally masculine scents, here are eight of the best gender-neutral fougère perfumes that are aromatic and deeply sensual.

The newest launch from Henry Rose’s collection, Menace was formulated by Cassar with his distinct memories in mind: “Menace is inspired by my inherent fascination with the sea and my favorite movie, Le Grand Bleu. Growing up, I was surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, first in Northern Africa where I was born and later in the South of France. Even today, on the island of Manhattan, I’m still very much surrounded by and connected to the sea and its exquisite beauty.”

As for the fragrance’s featured notes? Menace is filled with zesty lime, earthy patchouli, sensuous musks, and an oceanic marine accord.

No one does fragrances quite like Chanel — and Boy Chanel, in particular, gives all of those “quiet luxury” vibes, as the scents of lavender, geranium, and more combine into one sensuous, gender-neutral scent.

DedCool has gained a cult following with its best selling scent called “Taunt” — and 05 “Spring” is just as lovely, as rich notes of earthy incense, smooth moss, luxurious bergamot, and whimsical lavender surround your senses.

Inspired by a garden of greenery hanging from the terraces of grand palaces, Cypress & Grapevine smells exactly as it sounds: a mix of juicy grapes, resinous woods, and vibrant green moss.

Telegrama is inspired by a 1960s-inspired love affair that takes place on first-class flights in the nostalgic era. As for the notes? Lavender rests centerstage, while aromas of black pepper, fresh linens, and vanilla powder play supporting roles.

A unique expression of the beloved lavender note, Le Labo’s Lavande 31 pairs the dreamy purple flower with the essences of exotic bergamot, lively neroli, warm Tonka, and heated amber musk.

A classic fougère aroma that’s enlivened with the warmth of citrus, Fougère d'Argent is brimming with the scents of bright mandarin, aromatic lavender, and ginger-spiked woods.

A less expensive dupe for the Tom Ford fave, Oud Wood, Dossier’s Fougere Oud similarly features decadent notes of warm rosewood, dry vetiver, smokey tobacco, spiced pink pepper, and more.