Fashion

A Look Back At Issey Miyake’s Most Iconic Designs

“Design is not for philosophy, it's for life.”

by Dominique Norman
Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake (C) and his models greets the audience at the end of the Spri...
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On August 5, 2022, legendary fashion designer Issey Miyake passed away. As one of the first Japanese designers to show in Paris, Miyake opened the door for future designers of color, and he leaves behind a legacy of innovation. Here, a look at some of his most iconic designs.

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Miyake revolutionized the design process of pleating by creating permanent pleats in the fabric before cutting and sewing, as seen here in his S/S 1994 collection.
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Many motifs the designer used throughout his career were references to his Japanese heritage, including origami and lanterns. Legendary model Iman, seen here in his AW 1985 collection, was a favorite of Miyake’s.
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The lantern inspiration is evident in this design from Spring 1994. Miyake’s revolutionary pleating techniques continue to be a point of reference in fashion history, and serve as inspiration for up-and-coming designers.
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Before inclusive runway reports like those on The Fashion Spot existed, Miyake was creating runways that celebrated diversity. In this look from 1987, there’s also a clear focus on draping and neutral tones.
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This A/W 1997 collection played with body proportions, in a similar fashion to fellow Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo’s Lumps and Bumps collection from S/S 1997.
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Miyake’s use of color was bold and playful, so suiting styles like this one always had a fun twist. The A/W 1995 collection was a switch-up from his all-pastel spring collection from seasons past.
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The iconic breastplate design was one of Miyake’s early creations from the A/W 1980 collection — and who better to rock this look than fellow icon Grace Jones?
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Actress and The Row designer Mary-Kate Olsen wore vintage Miyake from the ’90s to the 2013 CFDA Awards, proving the famous pleats effortlessly withstand the test of time.
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Here, Grace Jones shows how great Miyake’s pleats look in leather.
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In a snap from earlier this year, model Paloma Elsesser showed off a vintage Issey Miyake pleated cape dress from 1995, worn to attend a friend’s wedding.
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Miyake was also behind Steve Jobs’ self-curated uniform of the black turtleneck. According to Jobs, the designer created nearly one hundred turtlenecks for the tech mogul.
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As Miyake stated in one of his many famous quotes, “I do not create a fashionable aesthetic... I create a style based on life.” His vision was authentic yet playful, perfectly exhibited by this AW 1995 look.